How can I prevent a drill bit from slipping on a hard surface when starting to drill?

Create a small indentation or add a grippy surface to give the drill bit a seat to register in, preventing it from skating across the material on the first rotation.

Drill a small-diameter pilot hole first, then enlarge it to the final size with a larger bit. The pilot hole provides a physical guide that prevents the larger bit from wandering.

Clamp a block of scrap wood with a pre-drilled hole onto your workpiece, then drill through the block's hole into the material below. The block's hole physically constrains the drill bit and prevents any lateral movement during the critical starting phase.

Set your drill to the lowest speed setting and apply firm, steady downward pressure as you start. Let the bit establish a groove before gradually increasing speed. Never let the bit spin freely on the surface without cutting.

Switch to a brad-point bit for wood or a split-point bit for metal. These specialty bits have a center point or modified tip geometry that grabs the material immediately without wandering, unlike standard twist bits.

Place a small piece of painter's tape or masking tape over the drilling mark on smooth surfaces like tile, glass, or polished stone. The tape provides friction that prevents the bit from skating as it begins to cut. Remove the tape after the hole is started.

For drilling into challenging surfaces like porcelain tile, natural stone, structural steel, reinforced concrete, or glass, hire a qualified contractor or tradesperson. Tile installers, plumbers, electricians, and general contractors regularly drill into hard surfaces with professional-grade tools…

Select drill bits specifically engineered for the hard material you are drilling. For porcelain tile and glass, use carbide-tipped spear-point bits or diamond-coated hole saws. For stainless steel and hardened metals, use cobalt steel bits (M35 or M42 grade). For masonry, concrete, and stone, use…

Create or purchase a drill template -- a flat plate (metal, hardwood, or acrylic) with pre-drilled holes at specific sizes and spacings. Clamp the template firmly to your workpiece so the desired hole in the template sits directly over your marked location. Insert the drill bit through the template…

If you do not own a center punch, a nail set (the tapered steel tool designed for countersinking finish nails) works as an effective substitute. Place the cupped or pointed tip of the nail set on your marked drilling location. Tap the flat end with a hammer to create a small starting dimple. Then…

Replace standard twist drill bits with brad-point bits (for wood and soft materials) or split-point bits (for metal and hard materials). Brad-point bits have a sharp center spur that digs into the surface before the cutting flutes engage, anchoring the bit exactly on your mark. Split-point (also…

Position the drill bit on your mark at approximately a 45-degree angle to the surface. Start the drill at very low speed so the bit tip catches and begins to scratch a small groove. Once the bit has created a visible notch or groove, slowly tilt the drill upright to your desired drilling angle…

Place the pointed tip of a spring-loaded automatic center punch on your marked drilling location and press down firmly. An internal spring mechanism fires a weighted striker that drives the tip into the material, creating a precise conical dimple without needing a hammer. The dimple gives the drill…