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Control airflow, humidity, and temperature to prevent mold environmentally
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Environmental control is the single most effective mold prevention strategy. Mold requires three things to grow: moisture, warmth, and stagnant air. Remove any one of these and mold cannot establish.
Temperature
- Optimal range: 18-24C (65-75F) for most varieties
- Below 15C (60F): Germination slows dramatically but mold risk also decreases
- Above 27C (80F): Mold and bacterial risk increases sharply -- this is the danger zone
- Critical threshold: Temperatures above 75F combined with humidity above 65% create ideal mold conditions
- Use a thermometer near your trays; do not guess
Humidity
- During germination/blackout: 50-65% relative humidity is acceptable since trays are covered
- After uncovering: Reduce to 40-50% -- this is the target range for growing
- Below 50%: Significantly inhibits fungal growth
- Above 65%: Mold becomes very difficult to prevent
- Use a hygrometer ($10-15) to monitor -- conditions vary room to room
- In humid climates, a small dehumidifier near the growing area helps
Air Circulation
- Fan type: Small oscillating fan is ideal -- sweeping motion prevents any area from getting continuous direct blast
- Placement: Point fan near trays but not directly at seedlings -- you want a gentle breeze, not a windstorm
- Duration: Run continuously after removing blackout cover; some growers run 24/7, others run during light hours only
- Clip-on fans: Work well mounted above the canopy on shelf racks
- For larger rooms (10x10+): Mount wall fans every 10 feet along perimeter
- Extractor fans: Should exchange room air every 3-5 minutes for optimal conditions
- A USB desk fan ($10-15) is sufficient for 1-4 trays
Blackout Period -- The Highest-Risk Phase
- Covering trays with a solid lid creates a warm, humid microclimate -- ideal for mold
- Use vented blackout domes (Bootstrap Farmer's domes have adjustable vents)
- Prop up one corner of solid covers to allow air exchange
- Limit blackout to the minimum needed: 2-3 days for most varieties (fast growers like kale and broccoli need only 1-2 days)
- Slow varieties (oregano, thyme) need 4-7 days and require extra vigilance
- Check trays daily during blackout for condensation buildup
- Wipe condensation from lids if it accumulates
Light Exposure
- 12-16 hours of light daily after blackout
- Light itself does not kill mold but helps dry the canopy surface
- The transition from blackout to light is when mold is most often first noticed
- UV components in natural sunlight have mild antifungal effect
Tips
- The combination of bottom watering + fan + temperature control eliminates 90% of mold problems
- If growing in a basement or enclosed space, ventilation becomes even more critical
- In summer, increase air circulation and reduce watering frequency
- In winter, heat mats under trays can raise local temperature above 27C -- monitor this
- A fan also strengthens stems by simulating wind, producing sturdier microgreens
📅 Created: 2/11/2026, 1:25:05 AM 📌 diy📌 free 🔧 Small oscillating or clip-on fan, thermometer, hygrometer
Other solutions for How do I prevent and treat mold on microgreens?
- Identify mold vs. root hairs and know common mold species
- Sanitize trays and equipment between every growing cycle
- Choose the right growing medium to minimize mold risk
- Use proper seeding density and bottom watering to prevent mold
- Try DIY antifungal remedies: cinnamon, chamomile tea, GSE, and diatomaceous earth