Re-glue loose joints with wood glue and clamps

Disassemble the loose joint, clean out old adhesive, apply fresh wood glue, reassemble, and clamp tightly until cured. This is the gold-standard repair for wooden chairs and tables with mortise-and-tenon or dowel joints that have worked loose over time.

How It Works

Wood glue (PVA such as Titebond Original or Titebond III) creates a bond stronger than the wood itself when applied to clean, well-fitted surfaces with proper clamping pressure. The key is removing all old dried glue first, since new glue will not bond to old glue.

Step-by-Step

1. Label each joint before disassembly so you can reassemble correctly
2. Gently tap joints apart with a rubber mallet or dead-blow hammer, protecting surfaces with a cloth
3. Scrape old glue from tenons and mortise holes using a chisel, utility knife, or coarse sandpaper
4. Dry-fit all parts to verify alignment before applying glue
5. Apply wood glue liberally to both mating surfaces (inside the mortise and outside the tenon)
6. Reassemble quickly and clamp with bar clamps or strap clamps
7. Check for square using a framing square or measuring diagonals
8. Wipe excess glue immediately with a damp cloth
9. Leave clamped for 24 hours minimum

Tips

• If a tenon or dowel is slightly undersized from wear, wrap it with a thin layer of cotton thread soaked in glue before reinserting (see the thread-wrapping solution)
• Work fast once glue is applied; PVA starts to tack in 5-10 minutes
• Do all four legs at once rather than one at a time to maintain proper alignment
• A band clamp (strap clamp) is ideal for chair joints since it applies even pressure around irregular shapes
• Do not use polyurethane glue (Gorilla Glue) for this; it foams and expands, which can force joints apart

Common Mistakes

• Not removing old glue: new PVA bonds wood-to-wood, not glue-to-glue
• Under-clamping: the joint must be tight with no gaps while drying
• Moving the piece before the glue has fully cured